We are back from a week in Hawai'i. High points: gorgeous scenery and weather on Kaua'i; snorkeling at Hanauma Bay; interesting cultural fusions (like the pancake breakfast at Ele'ele which offered Japanese pickles and rice on the side); watching the surf on O'ahu's north shore; the lovely slow speed limits (25-45 mph with no speeders!); and the surprising influence of reggae on contemporary Hawaiian music. At first I thought the last item must just be a Jimmy Buffet pan-beachist thing for the tourists but the evidence from record stores and radio stations says it's a genuine local affinity. Low point: we spent a little too long in Honolulu, which I guess is sort of a cross between Houston and Singapore. I was never very interested in Hawai'i before this trip, but I was so wrong. For more details check out my letter to Lonely Planet (coming soon).